Archive | March, 2013

Birth of foods!

27 Mar

Canelés, a fantastic tale of creativity. 

Have you ever heard of collage? it is the process of adding to a wine a substance called a glue that will neutralize excess impurities in the wine and soften up its tannins, it is a process particularly used in Bordeaux wine making. 
The most common glue is fresh egg white, fresh because the proteins in it must be in good shape to produce the expected result which is coagulation. Once the egg whites are mixed in the wine, they will slowly start coagulating like small snow flakes, that will fall at the bottom trapping impurities while falling, the must resulting will have to be gathered by the wine maker.  

It takes up to 8 whites to treat 200 litres of wine.
Bordeaux wine makers have exported in 2011, 196 millions liters of their wine, that not taking into account whatever us French drink, represents, taking an average 5 whites per 200 liters would give you an astonishing 4900000 egg whites. No mention so far about the egg yolks? What is happening to those egg yolks?

The canelé is your answer, it was first made by nuns in the Bordeaux region. Those nuns being rather poor were given by wine makers their egg yolks left over from the collage, the nuns turned those blessings in a delicacy known as canelé.

Aside 27 Mar

A poem by Thomas Braun:

God of the country, bless today thy cheese,
For which we give thee thanks on bended knees.
Let them be fat or light, with onions blent,
Shallots, brine, pepper, honey, whether scent
Of sheep or fields is in them, in the yard
Let them, good lord, at dawn be beaten hard,
And let their edges take on silvery shades
Under the moist red hands of dairymaids,
And, round and greenish, let them go town
Weighing the shepherd folding mantle down,
Whether from Parma or from Jura heights,
Kneaded by august hands of Carmelites,
Stamped by the mitre of a proud abbess.
Flowered with the perfume of the grass from Bresse,
From hollow Holland, from the Vosges, from Brie, 
From Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy!
Bless them good Lord! Bless Stilton’s royal fare,
Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream Gruyére.
Bless Kantercaas, and bless the Mayence round,
Where aniseed and other grains are found,
Bless Edam, Pottekees and Gouda then,
And those we salute with ” Sir ” like men.